MM MkIV
4 posts
Joined: 14/09/2004 13:50:25
Location: Sunbury-on-Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rubber type cv joint fouling LCB
Has anyone got a solution to the old rubber type cv joint rubbing against an LCB exhaust? I only have roughly 10mm of gap after whacking the pipe into the y piece, but under mod-hard driving the pipe works its way back out to start rubbing against the cv joint. Any ideas?
Posted: Dec 14, 2004 03:55 PM
have some on order now, as cheaper than converting to pot joints.
Posted: Dec 24, 2004 08:52 AM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
My friend had this problem on his Mk2 Cooper. If it is a Maniflow LCB, then they will mod it for free to change the angles required to miss the CV joints. The smaller nylon bushes do help matters, but there is a reason they are rubber as standard. Vibration!! Good luck
Posted: Dec 24, 2004 07:54 PM
chrispy61
51 posts
Joined: 08/12/2005 22:27:39
Location: Torquay United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
cv joint
lol my cv joint just blew up bearings and bits off metal everywere!!!
the problem is its a clubman which used to have drum brakes, i then converted it to disks with the hubs and everything, are the cv joints diffrent from drums?
i expect so, so what cv joint do i need from mini spares, all i no is that the caliper is AP with a single rubber brake pipe going to it, dont think there nethin special, i no they came off a mini, do the 998 city minis have the same cv joints?
Posted: Jul 05, 2006 07:38 PM
M. Willcox
17 posts
Joined: 19/04/2006 18:46:39
Location: Nailsea United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
just use 998 city cv joint which is the same for all 12" wheel minis
Posted: Jul 05, 2006 09:44 PM
DJ
115 posts
Joined: 23/06/2006 17:00:57
Location: London United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
i am having trouble removing the cv joint gaitor from the drive shaft. I uncliped the gaitor frm part of the drive shaft and removed the drive shaft. However on the larger end of the gaitor there seems to be a round metal ring that i acnt get off. I can seem to see how its holding the gaitor on.
can anyone help?
Many thanks
Dan
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 10:24 AM
John
75 posts
Joined: 30/09/2007 17:06:33
Location: Newport News United States
I can't help personally, but I know someone who can.
Try www.coopertune.com Ask Steve Gibbs for help and let him know John sent Ya.
He just worked this very same area for me and breezed right thru it.
Posted: Jan 07, 2008 05:45 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
if you have a new gaitor, with new clips, then just cut it off.
if you have the metal clips, you will need a special tool for refastening the metal clip.
cable ties are usually supplied though, and this is far easier
Posted: Jan 09, 2008 08:03 AM
Tim
1850 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
cv joints
Yes, part no GVC1013 is the cv joint for all minis 1984 onwards
Posted: Jul 06, 2010 02:30 PM
john renton
7 posts
Joined: 12/07/2009 22:25:16
Location: harrogate United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Worn diff or cv joint?
How can you tell the difference between a worn diff or cv joint?
When driving car in third gear at 30, if you lift foot off accelerator sharply then put back on you get a violent knock. Anyone any ideas please? ( engine mountings have recently been replaced so not them)
Thanks John
Posted: Aug 10, 2010 11:17 AM
Worn diff or cv joint
Are you sure it's not the engine rocking back and forth - did you replace the bushes on the engine stabiliser(s)?
Posted: Aug 10, 2010 06:25 PM
Yes they have been done
Posted: Aug 10, 2010 07:12 PM
The other thing to check is the front subframe mountings - if these are loose, or the rubber has perished (assuming you have the rubber mounts) the whole thing will move around.
Posted: Aug 11, 2010 10:36 AM
Yes they have been done too, It does sound like that but they have all been renewed within the last couple of months. I am at a loss now what it could be. Cheers john
Posted: Aug 11, 2010 11:04 AM
Then I guess you'll have to jack it up and check each side for play, by rotating the wheel and seeing how much free play there is, and also by rotating the driveshaft. Also I should check for up and down movement in the driveshaft, both at the cv end and at the gearbox end. Trouble is, I don't know what would constitute a reasonable amount of play - hopefully someone else will have some suggestions.
Posted: Aug 11, 2010 01:51 PM
Cheers mate, will perservere and see what turns up. Any more ideas would be great though, thanks
Posted: Aug 11, 2010 01:53 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
knocking on the 'overrun' is a common sign of joint failure. put it on axle stands and get someone to hold the brakes on for you. firstly hold the inboard pot joint and try to rotate the drive shaft. it shouldn't move more than 3/16" radially - if it does then the pot jiont is knackered or the splines are worn. secondly then try the same on the CV joint end. also try to jiggle it up/down to see how much general wear there is. one last test while underneath is to put the car in 4th gear then grab the inboard pot joint again and try to turn it - this will show you how much slack there is in the diff. it will move roughly 1/4 to 5/16" but if it's more than that or it clonks then you have a worn final drive.
as for testing CV joints - find a big car park, roll down the window, stick your head out and listen then drive in the tightest circle you can in 1st gear and then reverse. put it on opposite lock and do the same. any slack in the CV joint will show up more easily this way and there is minimum load in the inboard joints to mask issues with the CV joint.
did you check that all the radius arm connections are tight onto the subframe and lower arm?
Posted: Aug 13, 2010 09:58 AM
Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Got to agree with Barry, easiest way to check CV joint is to put car on full lock and drive, then try full opposite lock. Knackered CV will be noisy as hell !!
Posted: Aug 14, 2010 12:39 PM
faultymonkey
6 posts
Joined: 30/09/2008 20:45:09
Location: St Albans United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Loud screeching/grinding noise coming from front left wheel, cv joint?
Hey all
My 1989 Austin Thirty Mini has is making a really loud screeching or grinding type noise when driven, coming from the front left wheel. I reckon its the cv joint as the previous owner mentioned it was on the way out when he sold it to me.
It screeches when driven in a straight line, gets louder when turning to the right and sometimes disappears completely when turning to the left. Ive also noticed the left wheel occasionally stops turning with the engine and I get a slight jolt when it re-engages again (big problem!)
Can anyone confirm that it is the cv joint before I start pulling things apart. Also, does anyone know roughly how much it would cost a garage to fix this as I need it doing quickly and probably dont have all the right tools with me at the moment.
Cheers
Sam
Posted: Nov 17, 2010 11:19 PM